Brazil on our mind

So our plans have changed a bit since we last spoke about the routes and plans of this journey. Much have happened during this year and almost a half that we've spent in the Caribbean. We felt the need to change boat to something bigger and faster, we found a new boat, sold the old one and tried to acclimatize as well as possible to this new change that occassionaly brought some discomfort, stress and unbalance at its parts but except for that, we have survived well thus far. When we planned for this circumnavigation in the comfort of our, at that time, home and boat - onboard our ex-boat Caos, our main goal was to get out into the South Pacific. We thought that to get away, as far as humanly possible from our everyday life would make us happier and the image we've always had of cruising in the serene, picture perfect waters of the South Pacific called our name more than anything else in the world. After this year and a half in the Caribbean, we've kind of have changed our mind. Yes it will still be amazing the day when we get there, whenever that happens, but as we have came to the simple conclusion that it is not to sail around the world that is the main focus any longer, but to simply take it easy and to enjoy the best of the world, we've decided to go to the places, first, that we would miss if we were to rally around the world on the typical route of a circumnavigator. 

To sail straight South from the Caribbean to Brazil isn't normally the most adviced way to get there, particularly not this season (best would be between October and March), as one most probably will have to beat into the strong NW setting Guyana currents. An option, which most people do when they decide to get to Brazil from the West Indies, is to cross back to Europe, to the Azores or the Canaries and from there cross the Atlantic ocean again, to get to Brazil in a smoother manner. This would of course make the distance much longer, but at least you'd always have the favorable winds and currents on your back instead of the opposite. If we would have still sailed with Caos, we would probably never think about this route, but as our new boat is a racier one and goes well into the wind, we've decided to give it a try. 

The many books and websites we've read on the subject suggests that one should departure from Trinidad and hold close to the South American coast to avoid most of the strong currents, but as that for sure will be a very slow and uncomfortable (motor)sail, we've instead decided to leave from Barbados on a day where the winds are more NE than E and try to make our way as far E-SE as possible to begin with. We will then try to stay as far offshore as we can to avoid the Guyana current and then alter to a S direction once we're cleared of the proximity to Suriname where there has been a few piracy attacks reported these past years. Our aim is to reach as close to the border of French Guiana and Brazil and thereafter follow the coastline.

We're very content with and super excited about the choice that we are going to Brazil and the fact that we're going South instead of crossing the Atlantic once again. I will get back to you with more of our thoughts and plans for this journey shortly, until then; if any of you have ever done this trip, please feel free to share your experience with us. 

in light winds

It went pretty well to begin with, had good wind for the first seven hours, then it died out and a large swell from the Atlantic messed up the little wind there was. Engine on for the last five hours but it was fun as long as it lasted. Arrived in St Barts just after sunset.

misty

What began as a clear, sunny day turned into a misty, wet night when we left for Guadeloupe to meet up with Alex's sister the other day. Regardless the cold air and occasional rain, it is beautiful and exciting to get to experience the change of weather and wind with our new boat. She hasn't disappointed us yet and to be able to clock an average of 7.8 instead of 5.9 makes a huge difference in the end. Surfing down the waves in 11 knots is such a thrill and if I loved and enjoyed sailing before, I can't imagine ever being without it, today. To navigate your way on water with a rapidly moving boat is for me freedom in its purest form.

flawless

We had an amazing day of sailing around the NW coast of Antigua with Caos and her new owner, the other day. As the boat is being completely empty and because she had recently got some hull treatment - she sailed better than ever before. I think it was the first time that we could really enjoy and appreciate those new beautiful North Sails sails for real. 20 knots of wind was blowing from the NE and Caos pushed right through the water like a pro. We even beat that Hinckley 40' which seemed to be in a race mood. Too bad for them, Caos was the clear winner of the day. Thanks Michael for a great week, looking very much forward to sail with you and Caos again in a few months. 

weekend sailing

We have spent our weekend on Caos with her new owner Michael. Sailed from St Maarten to St Barts and will leave from here to Antigua tonight. Good weather, great company and nice stops along the way. After a new bottom paint, a fresh new stainless steel stove and some other smaller improvements this boat looks better than ever before. She's now going to get her teak deck done in Antigua before she will be delivered home to her new owner. If everything goes as planned, we all will be sailing Caos to Boston, New England later this summer. Was a while ago we were in those areas but will be fun to visit Boston, New York, Newport, Maine and all that. I think many of our readers live around there? 

Obsession

No matter from what angle we look at this boat, we always find her the most beautiful of them all. 

I guess that's what they call true love.

Good morning

Nothing like being greeted good morning by a limegreen lizard. 

Having just a few more things to purchase and fill the fridge with, ice must be picked up, need to do a last check of the boat and stove away what is needed, play a bit of Matthew Herbert on the ipod and soon we're off for a lonesome sunny sail around a corner of the island. We've been around so many different people lately so it kinda feels exciting to be just the two of us again.

Almost there

You remember my old friend Eduardo who I accidently bumped into a few weeks ago? He was here with the team of Gran Jotiti, a Volvo Open 70 that had arrived to the Caribbean to race the RORC600 and Heineken Regatta, Heineken which they later on won in their class. Eduardo, the navigator, invited us all over to sail one of those days in between races but as we got so much visitors and plans already, we unfortunately couldn't find time for it all. At least we got to see the boat in the marina which was very much fun as well, and later that night we organized a big barbeque with the crew and some other folks which I will show some photos from one of these days. So my dream of sailing a light boat with a speed over 25 knots is still not fulfilled, maybe during Antigua Sailing Week this year that dream will finally come true? Anyone in need of an extra crew of two, give me a shout!

The fastest boats I've ever been onboard thus far are Tribe, Peter Johnstone's Gunboat, and Sojana, Peter Harisson's Bruce Farr 115ft carbon ketch. Both during Antigua Sailing Week last year. We had so much fun on them both. Maybe in a year or two our own Halsey Herreshoff will be prepared to race in the classic regattas, until then we're glad for the opportunities we've got to race with others.

Home is where your heart is

Was about time that I got to show Alex my home country which we both enjoyed very much, but we always seem to miss our little boat whenever we're away for too long. Although she's currently a big mess with things and tools all over the place, nothing beats the feeling of being home. I am still, two years after I moved aboard a boat with Alex, amazed at how easy it was to adapt to a life in confined spaces on water. Tight, hot, not always so comfortable, currently no functioning water heater, not always enough electricity to charge the laptop, not quite enough space for all the belongings we wish to have with us - yet still this is where we feel most satisfied. Strange? Maybe, but there simply is something utterly fulfilling with being unattached in the way that you are when you have only yourself to rely on. Only the thought of that we can turn the engine key or hoist the sails any second and change location to almost wherever in the world, gives such incredible sense of independence, which I believe most of us are yearning for in one way or the other. Sometimes we look back and reflect upon the fact that we left a slightly more normal way of living to live aboard a small sailboat far from most of our families and friends, and even though life occasionally can be hard in the way we have chosen to live it, we still think this was the right way to go. There are many more dreams waiting for us to fulfill and every step, every deck fitting we re-bed, every new winch that is getting installed, every hour of work in front of the computer, every argument we've gone through and every hour of organizing inside of the boat is just taking us one step closer to those dreams. It is amazing how almost everything that we do in our everyday lives nowadays are intentionally or unconsciously connected to those dreams and it is pleasing to know that we have the power to make reality of them all. With a focused mind and a mutual understanding for the goal and the process, I sincerely believe we all can make our own miracles come true. 

surprise

How random is that? En serio.. Having somebody calling your name, you look up from the laptop and you see a familiar face from back home that you haven't seen in 6-7 years? World is such a small place. My friend Eduardo is a navigator and he just finished the RORC 600 yesterday with the old Telefonica Negro (today called Gran Jotiti) a Volvo 70 from 2008. Their current result is eight overall in this years edition of the 600. Great news, and even greater times will be spent in the next few days. Having so many friends on this island this weekend, one week before my 30th birthday and all. I can only read that as it must be time to begin that party already.

And yes if you were wondering, Alex and me are going to get to sail with that big fast bastard one of these days this weekend. Having butterflies in my stomach already, god knows how much I love speed. Seriously, look at that video and tell me you're not tempted. Just not sure how we will fit it all into the already tight schedule but we'll just have to make it work somehow.

Now time to go greet my girlfriends who've just flied in to the island from Dubai..  cheers!

Superficialities

More on the curves... the boat's that is. Look at that sensuous tumblehome. Just need to make a paint job on the hull but that'll have to wait for a while. New paint won't save our lives in a storm. A leakfree deck might do though, as well as new winches, rig and whatever else we have on that list. At least we don't have a teak deck no more, thank lord for that. Gelcoat non-skid is the way to go, not only because it looks better in photos as it does, but also because we don't have the patience to deal with the maintenance of a teak deck once again, particularly not here in the tropics where the sun is hard on the wood. It certainly is enough with what is in the cockpit. And yea, that might have to get replaced one day too when I think about it. Old and sad teak is never a beautiful thing.

Our new beauty

First time of docking our "new" boat, had to fill up the water tanks and instead of forcing ourselves to take numerous dinghy rides to fill up jerry cans every second day we thought we should go to the dock to fill the tanks for once. Went pretty well I must say although it is interesting to learn to do things a bit differently than with the previous boat. And yes we know, our boat has beautiful lines, people stopped and asked us at least four times during 40 minutes "what's that" "what make is it" "how beautiful she is.."and all we can do is to agree. This Halsey Herreshoff is a damn gracious yacht with gorgeous lines. If only she wasn't such a mess inside hah. 

Thankful

What a bitter sweet feeling. To see Caos stored on land where she will be until we'll sail her back down to Antigua where she will be given a new teak deck later this spring and thereafter we will be sailing her up to Boston, New England with and to her new owner. We had a glorious last day of sailing with her on the sea trial the other day and she performed better than ever with her beautiful new sails, an interior empty of all of our tools, shoes, surf boards and other heavy belongings and it was a pleasure to see her surfing through the waters of St Maarten. To see her performing so well and knowing what a safe and well equipped boat she is, made my heart ache a bit. Considering how much time, work and money that we've put into her, I definitely trust this boat more than what I do with our new one. I'm sure Duende one day too will be as prepared and ready for extensive offshore cruising but it will take a lot of time until we have the same confidence in her. Caos has brought us from home in Spain to the Caribbean, we have crossed an ocean with her, she has carried us through severe storms and she has performed like a pro in even the hardest of times. There have been moments where we have trusted this boat more than ourselves and brief moments where I almost felt we were going to die yet she was always there for us, her strength and stability carried us through it all. It almost feels as if we are abandoning her, just like we are not appreciating everything she have done for us. If you have ever sailed, loved and put your life in the hands of a boat you will probably understand how emotional this separation is. It is almost like saying goodbye to your best friend. But while it is a sad moment which makes us very nostalgic and literally brings me to tears, we are also glad to finally be able to relax. A new chapter has begun for us and we are sure Caos will be happy once she gets back to the colder waters where she actually belongs and was built for.

We would like to thank our friend Reg Bates at Weather Eye Yachts in St Maarten for being there for us through these past nine months from the time we found our new boat until this day. If you're ever looking for to buy or sell your boat in the Caribbean, you should get in touch with this man. Whatever you need, he will make it happen. We would also like to thank Roger Johansson at Free State Yachts in Chesapeake who brought us the buyer. If you are ever looking for a Hallberg Rassy in USA, this is the man who to get in touch with. Roger has been the HR broker in the states for the past 30 years and we were met with extreme professionalism and couldn't have wished for a more rapid and smooth sales process. Big thanks also to Magnus Rassy at Hallberg Rassy for helping us out with some of the paperwork that was needed. We are very thankful for the relatively quick procedure in these hard times. The boat market is suffering as many other, at least if you see it from the vendors perspective, but we were lucky to deal with the best of people to make this all happen in professional and comfortable manners.

Will soon go through all the videos made on Caos and show you a bit of our Atlantic crossing as I've promised you for a while now. So many good and educative times spent on that boat. 

Falmouth Harbor By Night

These are our neighbors.